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#1 2020-05-17 09:32:23

DenTarr
Member
Registered: 2017-06-09
Posts: 9

DIY Top Down printer and resin question

First a big "Thanks!" for the NanoDLP Software development. Its a great control software and my own DIY project wouldnt have been possible without it (like so many others I guess)!

I have been building my Top Down DLP printer for a long time. But finally I have it working.

Using an old Acer 6510 projector, Pi3 with Nanodlp and a Gen_L v2 with Marlin compiled for Nanodlp. And a Manhatten USB to Serial for Projector control.

So far working fine. However my prints do have visible layers. Faint but visible.

I use Senertek Form Resin. Mainly because its the lowest viscosity resin I know. I use 1mm lift height and 60mm/min speed. The projector is unmodified and exposes 5 sec per layer on 50u layers.

The resin is semi-transparent so I was thinking of light bleeding? Does anybody have experience with that?

Would be nice to get some feedback or maybe insight in someone elses experiences.

Here some calibration cubes and a miniature I printed. Cubes are 5 mm in size:

https://imgur.com/lLcYquQ

Last edited by DenTarr (2020-05-17 09:41:26)

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#2 2020-06-10 11:52:52

Sint
Member
Registered: 2018-06-06
Posts: 25

Re: DIY Top Down printer and resin question

You can try to lower the exposure time and see if that improves the quality. Or lower the Z resolution to 20 or 30 micron. Bigger Z resolution will give you more stairstepping effect like you see on your prints.

Make sure you mix/shake the resin before using, the pigment must mix with the resin it self.

Is the measurement of the cubes correct in XY and Z? Print 1cm cube and test. Keep in mind that if you print on the platform directly the base layers are overcured. So Z measurement will not be correct. Unless you put it on supports or have no overcure.

Z bleed you can see if you have it. parts will be correct in XY but dimensions are bigger in Z axis. Then you need to lower exposure time. Try lowering it until prints fail. Then raise it a little.

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